But it was mornings like this that brought home where we were, and why we were doing it. Sometimes at the end of the day when your knees were screaming and you were hiking the last few miles to camp in rapidly fading light, it was easy to forget. Then you wake up the next morning with views of cloud-filled valleys, and you wonder why you don't do this kind of thing more often. Day three of proper hiking along the Inca trail promised lots more ruins, more altitude, and more cloud forest.
Discovered by the explorer Hiram Bingham, who was searching for Machu Picchu, like much of the Incan architecture the purpose of the tambo aren't entirely clear. While some historians claim it was a lookout post for the trail, others have said it was a guard house, a grain store or even a llama corral.
From here the hike just kep going up -- and like the previous day, the air was thin, the trail was steep and the going was slow. While we knew we were going up to 4,000m again, we'd spent the night at altitude and so hadn't nearly as far to go this time -- instead we had almost all of the rest of the day downhill.
Having spent the best part of the day so far not actually at the back of the group, I decided to forego a brief side trip up to the ruins of Sayaqmarka and instead press on ahead. There was still a lot of hiking to be done, and I had some foolish notion that I might possibly be able to get back before nightfall without being eaten by a puma. Though I expect for many it would be an honour to be eaten by such a revered animal, I figured that could at least wait until after Machu Picchu.
As the day wore on, the trail levelled out and widened -- giving us fine views and occasional patches of cloud forest. The third pass was reached easily after passing through an Inca tunnel in the rock. I can't be sure exactly when it was in the day, but it must have been about around this time that one of my fellow trekkers had a small mishap with some strong pharmaceutical painkillers.
For reasons of her own, one of the trek doctors had given her two of these tablets, and she'd been instructed to take them something like four hours apart. I can be fairly clear about these instructions, since I'd been given some myself -- but never felt the need to resort to those on top of what I was already taking. Many of you can probably guess what happened next -- it got to halfway through the day, and Yvonne realised she had forgotten to take one of the tablets earlier. Maybe she was feeling particularly sore, and that was what reminded her, but she obviously figured that she would need to "catch up" on what she had missed, and took them both at once.
Yvonne later told us that she didn't realise this was a mistake until some time later. We were at the top of a particularly steep climb, everyone was getting their breath back, and Yvonne noticed how the colours on all the plants seemed so unusually vivid, and thought to herself that she hadn't known that was a symptom of altitude sickness. Then she remembered the tablets she had taken, and realised all was not well. Before long, she was giggling like an addict in the depths of an ether binge, and was unable to walk any distance completely unaided.
Luckily for everyone involved, Yvonne needed nothing more than one of the group leaders to support her as she walked and to keep an eye on her -- no permanent damage was going to have been done, she just needed supervision and assistance.
Before you can get to the final day, though, if you are like me you will spend most of the last hour of walking actually hiking in complete darkness with only a headtorch for light. While I wasn't alone and the camp wasn't far away, it was still not advisable to be walking the trails in the dark. For me, it just added to the adventure -- but I still didn't want to get eaten by any wild animals.
The campsite of Winay Wayna was completely different to the previous two nights. For a start it had toilets and showers -- real toilets and real showers, that weren't in tents. It also had a dining hall, a kind of off-licence and a small shop that sold the tokens you needed to buy beer. Most of the others had already been back at the camp for an hour or two already by this point, and had got on the beers without delay. Even Joe, who had made a lazarus-like recovery.
To celebrate the end of the camping, that evening there was a formal meal at real tables and everything -- but for many of us, that was where the celebrations would stay, because the next day was the final hike to the lost city of Machu Picchu.